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CLEDDAU WATERWAY - Economic/Geographical/Historic
The Inland or Hidden Waterway is really two waterways (Daugleddau) which merges downstream into the Milford Haven Waterway, and was once described by Admiral Nelson as one of the finest natural harbours in the world. Geographically known as a “ria” or drowned valley, it offers 24 miles of sheltered cruising water with numerous creeks and river channels to explore, all overlooked by the mysterious Preseli Hills, homeland of the ancient Celts. Over 3000 years ago the Waterway was supposedly used as the launching base for the stones, transported to build the monuments at Stonehenge, but carved and hewn from the limestone of the Preseli Hills. The modern day cruise liners which land tourists at the ports along the River, were preceded by the Vikings who used the Waterway as a haven and base for viewing the local communities on a rather less friendly basis.
Pembrokeshire and the Haven in particular contain relics of history dating back to the earliest times. The Blue Stones of Stonehenge are reputed to have come from the Preseli Hills, and evidence suggests they were transported down the Waterway – some Blue Stones may even remain on the Waterway floor from transport mishaps. Both the Romans and the Vikings are known to have visited the area for their various needs.
The Tudor dynasty was founded at Pembroke, and the Waterway was the base from which the throne of England was captured. Tiny Mill Bay on the Dale Peninsula saw Henry Tudor and a small army come ashore on the first stage of a long march to Bosworth Field where Crown of England was won. During the Civil War in the 17th Century, Pembroke Castle was the subject of a siege by Oliver Cromwell – originally the Parliamentary forces held the Castle, switched allegiance to the Royalists, but were subsequently defeated by Cromwell, and the Castle destroyed by Cromwell in revenge. Resoration work only commenced on the Castle in 1880, and has continued until the present day. An offer to cover the whole of the inside of the Castle by visitors from the New World was however turned down. Further up river, along a tributary is stately Carew Castle.
Pembrokeshire’s ports and harbours have been trading with the world for centuries. When Britain’s world position depended on its Navy, the Haven played its part. It became the center of what grew to be one of the biggest Royal Dockyards, launching over 200 men-of-war. Indeed in the 1920’s, a Japanese warship was amongst the range built of the Waterway. The legacy remains, and the Haven is surrounded by the still remarkably intact and massive Victorian forts known as Palmerston’s follies, which were built to defend the Haven from a French invasion which never materialized. The two world wars saw large garrisons of all the services, the ports serviced the Atlantic fleet, protecting the Western Approaches and as home to the famous Sunderland flying boats.
At the outset of the First World War, some sixty Belgian trawlers found refuge at Milford Haven, which also provided home for over 200 refugees, including the Belgian Royal family. Testimony to the past activity on the water can be found by visiting the Web-Site, kindly published by Len Bateman, Pembrokeshire FM’s favourite weather man, which identifies the wrecks of Pembrokeshire from the 15th Century to date.
For many emigrants in the 19th century, Pembrokeshire was their last sight of Britain, as they headed to the Americas from Pembroke Dock, Milford Haven, and Neyland. Even today, Pembroke Dock has an important Irish Sea ferry terminal. Milford Haven was once a major fishing port, and Milford and Neyland Marinas are now busy tourist attractions. Indeed if it was not for a touch of fate, due to the Waterway providing facilities for a large Naval Base in the late 19th Century, Neyland could well havwe become the embarkation point to the Americas, following the siting of Brunel’s Railway Terminal at Neyland in the 1850’s. Clay pipes are still being dug from the mud alongside the quays at Neyland as a reminder of that era. When the “Great Eastern” was being refurbished on the Waterway at this period, there was the surprising discovery of a male skeleton behind one of the bulkheads, holding two bags of gold sovereigns – was he protecting the gold from predators, or did he himself have dubious claims on the property – another mystery to unravel!.
The Daugleddau Estuary (or ‘Secret Waterway’),is a pastoral landscape of open farmland and wooded river banks. The area is a haven for wildlife, where ducks, heron, geese, cormorants, otter and mink can be found in abundance. Eleven species of butterflies can be found at the Wildlife Reserve near Neyland. On some days, the occasional seal can be spotted on its way from the coast. Drifting along the river in a boat is a fine way to relax, maybe calling in at the many riverside restaurants, including the Ferry Inn at Llanstadwell, the Jolly Sailor at Burton, or the Creswell Quay Inn (tide allowing), and let your cares wash away. A number of charter boat companies operate from Neyland and Milford Haven to enjoy this tranquility. Further downstream is the Milford Haven Waterway, Europe’s biggest deep water port, where one can enjoy the
colour and clamour of large ocean-going tankers disgorging their cargoes of crude oil and gas, to keep the engines of industry active in the U.K.
If it is action that is required, the waters warmed by the Gulf Stream, provide the opportunity for all forms of sailing and windsurfing to coasteering, cycling, pony trekking, mountain biking or golf. Last if not least are the miles of the Coastal Path section of the Waterway. This section of the Path, although not as tasking as some stretches to the North and South has a number of interesting and intriguing features. “Off” season or “In” season, the Waterway is well worth a visit for exhilarating walking to bring the colour to one’s cheeks, or just diverting to a secluded walks to some Wildlife Reserves en route. A warm welcome is provided by the excellent accommodation at a number of inns, guest houses and bed and breakfast facilities along the Waterway. Here is the opportunity to see a different, but equally charming side to Pembrokeshire’s countryside.
Returning to the water, Dale is particularly well known for top quality windsurfing, with numerous international contests held here. If one enjoys messing about on boats, instead of boards, the gentle waters of the Milford Haven Waterway and the Daugleddau are just waiting to be discovered. The 1200 moorings and 700 marina berths are complimented by a further number of launching facilities used by locals and visitors alike. Cruisers are best served by locations at Milford, Neyland Marina, Lawrenny and Pembroke Watersports Park. The very best tuition in paddle, power and sail is available from Pembrokeshire Watersports at the Castle Pond in the shadow of Pembroke Castle, and at the Cleddau River Centre, Pembroke. There are also a number of Yacht Clubs located on the Waterway, which provides both training and racing throughout the Season. Indeed it has been known for locals and visitors alike to embark on a ‘gap’ year after taking early retirement, but then find it very difficult to consider re-using their skills, rather than leave the enjoyment of ‘potting about on the river’
The fishing is second to none, with excellent salmon, sewin, brown and rainbow trout, not forgetting fresh water fishing at the nearby Llysyfran Country Park. Sea fishing can be enjoyed by embarking from a number of locations on the Waterway, most notably Neyland and Milford Marinas.
The Haven is a mother-in-laws paradise, either to re-charge batteries, or simply to get away from family duties – either way, whether a mother-in-law or lesser mortal, endeavour to place in a drawer at home that scourge of modern day living – the mobile phone. As a visitor or local, simply relax and enjoy the way of life and opportunities presented by just being on or alongside such a magnificent waterway.
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